EV Weblog Comments - A Kiwi EV http://www.evconvert.com/ Helping people get rid of Gas since 1995 by: Gavin Shoebridge (A Kiwi EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/a-kiwi-ev#c002213 <p><strong>A Kiwi EV</strong></p> <p>Thanks everyone! <br /> It was a little illegal but had to be done. ;)</p> <p>Found some teething issues I need to fix too. So far so good though.</p> by: John Jackson (A Kiwi EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/a-kiwi-ev#c002212 <p><strong>A Kiwi EV</strong></p> <p>Hey,<br /> Way to go Gav. Saw your video of the first test drive. Sweet. JJ</p> by: Thalass (A Kiwi EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/a-kiwi-ev#c002211 <p><strong>A Kiwi EV</strong></p> <p>Hey, Gav! Good to see you have the Treddie on the road (kinda). Now you just have the paperwork to do… haha</p> by: Gavin Shoebridge (A Kiwi EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/a-kiwi-ev#c002200 <p><strong>A Kiwi EV</strong></p> <p>Thanks for that Peter. <br /> I’ve got it set up as you suggested at the moment; as soon as your foot is taken off the gas pedal the contactor pops open.</p> by: Peter (A Kiwi EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/a-kiwi-ev#c002198 <p><strong>A Kiwi EV</strong></p> <p>I’m afraid there may be some confusion going on here.</p> <p>The Curtis does have sort of a high pedal lockout that protects you if the pot were to fail and go beyond full throttle. It also prevents you from taking off if you were to depress the pedal before turning the key. </p> <p>However, this doesn’t help you if the Curtis were to fail closed circuit, which has been known to happen.</p> <p>To protect against this most DC motor based EVs use an external high pedal lockout that drops the main contactor when you take your foot off the accelerator.</p> <p>Usually there’s a micro switch on the potbox that closes or opens when the pedal is high. Wire this to drive a relay that interrupts the coil circuit on the main contactor.</p> <p>Here’s a wiring diagram.<br /> http://www.evconvert.com/eve/schematic-update</p> <p>And don’t forget the precharge circuit…</p> by: Gavin Shoebridge (A Kiwi EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/a-kiwi-ev#c002196 <p><strong>A Kiwi EV</strong></p> <p>No need to panic! <br /> I just heard back from <span class="caps">EVA</span> and the High Pedal Lockout is a function built into the Curtis controller. <br /> It’s not something I need to physically install myself. Phew.</p> <p>Hope that helps anyone else with the same problem some day!</p> by: Gavin Shoebridge (A Kiwi EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/a-kiwi-ev#c002195 <p><strong>A Kiwi EV</strong></p> <p>Hey folks, <br /> Does anyone know what a schematic diagram with the High Pedal Lockout included would look like?<br /> I have the contactor working great but can’t figure out how the High Pedal Lockout joins into the circuit.<br /> Anyone have a diagram, picture or can explain how to wire up the High Pedal Lockout?</p> by: Gavin Shoebridge (A Kiwi EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/a-kiwi-ev#c002190 <p><strong>A Kiwi EV</strong></p> <p>Thanks James! And thank you Jerry! Very nicely done.</p> <p>I’m off to call my battery supplier now. It’s finally time to get those batteries.<br /> :)</p> by: James May (A Kiwi EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/a-kiwi-ev#c002189 <p><strong>A Kiwi EV</strong></p> <p>Hi Gavin</p> <p>I installed my heater in exactly the same way. I cut a rectangular hole in the old copper matrix and glued in the new heater with polyester resin “Plastic Padding” “Chemical Metal”. The wires now come out of the holes where the matrix pipes used to be.</p> <p>The 120V heater isn’t very effective on 96V. I wish I had glued 2 in there or used a lower voltage model.</p> <p>It looks like a lovely neat job you are doing!</p>