EV Weblog Comments - Larry's EV http://www.evconvert.com/ Helping people get rid of Gas since 1995 by: Glen (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c003094 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>Can you connect a generator to recharge the batteries? I know it will decrease the hp but by a substancial amount?</p> by: DanP. (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c003087 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>Jeff,<br /> Yes<br /> http://www.go-ev.com/images/TransWarP_9_%20Mktg1.jpg</p> by: jeff (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c003085 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>can you put an electric motor right on to the rear diff of a, or do you need a tranny?</p> by: Kustomatic (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c003080 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>Nice EV. I can’t wait to convert mine. Mustang cars are fuel monsters. I really hate it.</p> by: Dr. Larry (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002899 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>There is a blip on youtube about No Gas 2. In the search bar type in my amateur call KB8GJG and click on the picture of the car. Thanks. Dr. Larry</p> by: Dr. Larry (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002898 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>Hi Folks,<br /> I am sorry it has been some time since I have been on here to answer some of your questions but I do want to address a couple that I have been asked off of the website. The first question I was asked concerned contactors. I never used a contactor. Instead I used a manual throw switch mounted just behind the driver’s seat. This eliminates some problems some have had with the contacts welding themselves shut if there is a lot of amperage present when the ignition is turned on. Second there is a lot more surface with a manual switch then with a set of relays contacts. The second question had to do with use of solar panels on the car. First of all the solar panels I use are only rated at about 2 watts each so when it comes to charging the batteries it is like a spit in the ocean but that isn’t the reason I put them there. You may or may not know that deep cycle batteries will sulfate if they are not constantly being charged or discharged. Nothing is harder on one of these batteries then to just sit. So the reason for the solar panels is to keep the batteries doing something in between charges to keep the plates a clean as possible and prolong the life of the battery. I will soon be approaching 6 years on the Road with No Gas 2 and I noticed a difference in batter life with and without the panels. Work on the extended range trailer continues and I will soon being sharing the project with all of you. ….Dr. Larry</p> by: Kyle B (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002845 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>Dr. Larry helped me realize that the <span class="caps">KTA</span> and <span class="caps">EVA</span> prices are not absolutes – thankyou. One problem I am having with my 12 volt chargers is that the switch for the amps must be pressed to get the highest 6-amp rate. Which on mine means pressing 12 chargers 2 clicks each night. A slide switch would be better for this setup. Internally it is all on a circuit board, so can’t be bypassed.<br /> I am still in progress:<br /> http://www.evalbum.com/1783</p> by: Rich (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002828 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>http://members.aol.com/bohandesign/evkits/default.htm<br /> They don’t have a ton of info – but it is the old school relay type of system with built in regen braking – more up my ally right now. I have e-mailed them and Kaylor to try and find out information and as of yet – no help. Good luck!</p> by: EVdude (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002823 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>Can you give me the web address for BearKat. If you want to make the pickup lighter then try your hand at fiberglass making. I found that it is not as hard as it seems but you do need to be careful because if you mess up you may have to start over.<br /> good luck on your conversion.</p> by: Rich (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002817 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>-EVdude, thanks<br /> I have just recieved a hand-me-down aircraft generator that I may start with. I have been looking at the BearKat kit that are used mainly with VW conversions. It may not get me what I want, but it will be a start and from what I can see on BearKat’s site, it may not be all that expensive – and regen is built into the shunt motor/generator design. <br /> If I continue down this road, I will be concerned with making the p’up as light as possible by making the battery boxes out of aluminum and such. The BearKat is pretty old school, using relays instead of transistors and such, but there again – less expensive way to get into this. <br /> I do like Dr. Larry’s suggestion of the Walmart deep cycle 12v batteries instead of the golf cart batteries and the less expensive chargers. I will have to research that a bit more to understand that – especially with doing a 36-48v build.<br /> I will post what I find out from BearKat.<br /> Thanks again<br /> rm</p> by: EVdude (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002816 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>80’s Isuzu pickup that is in good condition. nice choice. regenerative braking is possible if you have a controller set up for it. most people have trouble setting up regen on series wound motors but it is possible. if i were you i would use a permanent magnet motor. as to what motor, controller and other stuff you use it is up to you. most kelly controllers have regen capability at a low price and many people use these because they are very reliable. as for the solar cells they are not a good idea if you need to extend the range by any measurable amount but can help keep up the voltage as battery power gets lower like dr. larry did.</p> <p>just click the link in the top right that says conversions and read some of the other conversions that people have done.</p> by: Rich (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002815 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>Dr. Larry,<br /> I have dreamed of doing a conversion for years. And now, with gas so high and a dead late 80’s Isuzu pickup in the garage, now seems to be the oportune time. The truck has a 5 speed and I think I can have plenty of room under the bed for batteries, and some under the hood. The owner of the company I work for was concidering doing a conversion in the late 70’s, bought some components and then ditched the project. I was going to go over and see what he has b/c they are free. I think he was going to engineer his own controller (he is kind of geeky that way). What I need to know is how to calculate the type of components I would need for a 40 mile, one way commute – charge for the 10 hours I am there, and come back. My route does not have any steep inclines and is a state highway, not interstate, so if I could cruise at 55, that would be great. Can you send me a link to know how to start this? Then I will go scavange the 70’s equipment he has to see just what is there. <br /> Has anyone tried to work out some regenerative braking? <br /> Also, one of the reasons I was going to use the truck (one b/c it is paid for and is in good shape) is I plan on covering the canopy or toneau cover with solar cells.<br /> Thanks for any help<br /> rm</p> by: EVdude (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002790 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>I have an excellent project for my electric car(i just got it yesterday and hope to start within 2 weeks so maybe jerry will have an article on it very soon). anyway i measured under the backseat and i have just enough room above the axle(the seat will have to be raised up). i plan on using 6 12 volt 600 cold cranking amp car starting batteries. yeah you heard right, <span class="caps">STARTING</span> <span class="caps">BATTERIES</span>. now before you say anything continue reading. i will use a 2nd 72 volt motor and a 500 amp controller. i will program so it activates for 10 seconds only. i have an old nitrous microswitch that only activates at full throttle. i gutted this and ran wires directly to the mechanical linkage and will hook these to the potbox input so that when it activates it does so at full throttle only. this will not be used for more range but more temporary torque at full throttle. this is just to give me a faster 0-60 time(hopefully in the lower 8 seconds) and starting batteries are perfect because they are built to put out high amounts of current for short amounts of time(say 10 seconds). during normal driving (not at full throttle) the second motor will not be active but if i want to i can show out at a red light for no other reason than to shatter the misconception that EV’s are too slow. can’t wait to get it done and show out for my friends(and the cops).</p> by: EVdude (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002757 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>was that alternator rated 60 amps at 12 volts. if it was then at 140 volt it would probably only output 6 amps. then regulating it to 90 volts would give about 10 amps of charging. if your just looking to trickle charge while driving then this is a good idea but if you want to extend the range then 10 amps won’t do very much at all.</p> by: Dr. Larry (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002752 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>I am going to try using a Chrysler alternator. I chose a Chrysler because they require an external voltage regulator. That means without a regulator the alternator will deliver about 140 volts DC full output. I can control the voltage out with two methods as I only want about 90 volts or less. the first method is just to run the gas engine at a desired <span class="caps">RPM</span> the other is to adjust the field voltage with a rheostat. If I put too much voltage up front or into the battery string, it will shut down the voltage controller. The alternator is rated at almost 60 amps. I am hoping for the best as this is all experimental. I have done some work on the car-top putting in the control panel and gas tank. I have the motor but am still waiting for the trailer to arrive from Harbor Freight. I will send pictures when it is completed. Dr. Larry</p> by: Mike (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002751 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>P.S. I made a battery charger from a pawn shop <span class="caps">ARC</span> welder I paid $70 for. My wife and I re-wound it for 120 volts at about 10 amps. It will fully charge a string of 8, or more, 12 Volt batteries in series. I charge at about 6 amps.</p> <p>Mike</p> by: Mike (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002750 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>Greetings from the newcomer. I just started to build an EV. I’m using an ADC9, and making my own controller, which worked fine at 105 Volts….until one device blew. They’re rated at 300V., and the transients were about 120 V. peak. I had many more to keep it going. (all on the bench)My question: Have you observed oscilloscope waveforms coming from the motor? I get a ringing at low to mid speed, then it disappears mid to full speed. There are no stray oscillations from the controller. A 470 uF, 450 Volt, 105 deg. C capacitor across the controller cures it all, but will literally explode if left powered up. Any thoughts on the ringing?</p> <p>Thanks..Mike</p> by: Dan P. (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002741 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>Hey Dr. Larry,</p> I’ve seen one of these trailer types being hauled by motorcycles and it was very aerodynamic looking. Here are some links for similar types. http://www.prolineracks.com/car-roof-top-cargo-carriers.html http://www.motorcycletrailer.com/ http://www.motorcycletrailer.com/cargo1.htm http://www.uhaul.com/guide/index.aspx?equipment=trailer-sport http://www.performancedesign.net/Portfolio/car/samples/trans/uhaulwkndr1.html by: Dr. Larry (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002740 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>Hi all; I am currently working on a new project for no gas 2. It is a generator trailer that will tow behind the car. The “hybrid trailer is nothing new but for the life of me I can’t seem to find anyone who is doing this very thing. This hybrid trailer will have a 15 hp gas engine, 100 amp alternator. It is electric start. I hope you will understand how the wiring will be accomplished. First of all the system as it is now is 84 volts. I have been running this way for well over 2 years. I have 7 batteries hooked in series and to each of those I have an additional battery hooked in parallel. I will tap each + and each – and bring them to one central point that become my charging point for the hybrid trailer. In essence this will transform the all electric car into a plug in hybrid only unlike the plug in hybrid the car has no gas engine at all and the trailer can be left home if you are not planning on going over range. The trailer was purchased from Harbor Freight and the engine I found for $100. The wire in the car for the charging will be #10 gauge. The wire running from the trailer to the charging terminals in the car will be #2 cable. The body of the trailer is actually a cargo hauler the kind that would normally be put on top of your car sort of like those u-haul ones you see. The trailer has been painted to match the car. The whole thing is beautiful. Jerry I will in the near future be submitting to you some photos to be posted above if that is OK. Stayed tuned. Dr. Larry</p> by: EVdude (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002725 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>Hey i have a question but couldn’t post it on the second update because it said there were too many posts. Anyway i was wondering if Dr. Larry kept all of the batteries hooked together when he was charging them. If he does then wouldn’t the second charger have to deal with 24 volts instead of 12 and the third have 36 and so on and so on. And one more question for dr. larry. Did you use fiberglass body panels for your metro. I plan on using fiberglass body panels and replacing parts of the frame with titanium alloys which are lighter and stronger than the steel parts currently being used.<br /> P.S. i picked up a 1990 ford Probe GT yesterday and plan on using a 72 volt system similar to dr. larry’s but will use one charger per battery and use 2 accessory batteries for a total of 14 batteries. I will use Everstart marine deep cycle batteries that are half the size of the ones dr. larry used and have 500 cold cranking amps at 0 degrees Fahrenheit. However i will not let them get that cold. I will use 4 12 volt heater cores, 2 for the cab and 2 for the batteries. I will use a 12 volt Air Conditioner electric motor drive system for the AC compressor(heavy duty compressor originally from a 2500HD Chevy pickup) and use it to keep the batteries at a moderate temperature.<br /> Total runtime at 50% dod will be 10 to 15 hours. range in miles unknown.</p> by: Liv2xplore (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002717 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>Another place to find alot of variety is at www.evalbum.com. I’ve learned alot there and spend way too much time on that site.</p> by: Dr. Larry (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002715 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>Hi JJ Mills<br /> I have no ideas on a van conversion but have no reservations that it could be done. As for who inspects, I had the local Highway Patrol do a safety check on the car and the <span class="caps">EPA</span> also came and gave me an exemption card. At that time our county required vehicle emission testing. We don’t have that now. I would go to you tube and check out all of the conversions there. I get more out of looking then reading any time. thanks for the comments<br /> Dr. Larry</p> by: JJ MILLS (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002689 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>dr. larry, you’re my hero this week. what do you think of me converting my ’65 chevy handi-van? i am fully aware of weight and aerodynamic issues (think refrigerator!) but it can also haul a <span class="caps">LOT</span> of weight, and has manual everything. i don’t need a lot of range, maybe 20 miles max per day. also do you recommend a comprehensive book on ev conversion? thanks p.s… also legality issues-who inspects these things to deem them road worthy?</p> by: Fred Brown (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002646 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p>I think I can weld a bike chain sprocket to the outside of the electric AC clutch – and a multia sprocket to my 12vdc motor. That will give me several speeds to play with I picked up a Brigs&Straton 8 hp starter motor at Glens Surplus in Shelby, Ohio<br /> (a great place to shop). I’m not sure what the little starter will take. There were no specks on the motor other than [12 v]. I have not been able to find anything on an 8 horse Brigs.</p> by: Mike Dieroff (Larry's EV) http://www.evconvert.com/article/larrys-ev#c002626 <p><strong>Larry's EV</strong></p> <p><span class="caps">FYI</span> – D&D Motor Systems has a new link to their website about EV conversions. Check it out at: http://www.ddmotorsystems.com/ElectricVehicles.shtml</p>