Hi Greg –
Can you explain what I’m seeing in the image of your Baldor motor on this page:

http://www.evconvert.com/article/yugo-greg-ii-revenge-of-the-motor

It looks like there’s chain wrapped around the end of your motor shaft.

I’m trying to think of an easy way to offset my oversize drive motor from the input shaft of my transaxle (because there isn’t enough clearance for the half-shaft axle that runs back “behind” the motor), and I immediately thought of that picture and wondered if your chain was doing something similar – IE engaging a cog on your transaxle’s input shaft so you could offset the drive motor?

thanks! Darin

Hi, the chain is just the link between two sprockets. This is a direct link to the input shaft on the transaxle.
I thought I might have a problem with the axle, behind the motor, but the axle is far enough back that this motor clears it with room to spare. A chain drive as you might need to move your motor may be hard to do as there would be a need for access to it to hook it up and a support bearing for the trans shaft to offset the side pressure. What diameter is your motor?
Greg

Thanks for the reply, Greg.

So the chain is what’s holding together the two halves of your motor-to-tranny shaft coupler? If so, a bit of play there gives you extra alignment tolerance too. Nice.

My clearance problems are with the 12 inch diameter motor. (For reference, the flywheel on the ICE is more like 10 inches.)

It looks like the path of least resistance is to abandon the big motor and use one of the 8 inch pump motors.

The disadvantages with that approach are:

On the plus side:

i am interested to get in touch with the guy that converted the 800$ yugo ev. i would like to convert my car.

Greg, congratulations, this is really amazing. Greetings from Serbia, the home country of Yugo :)

nice work man!
greets from germany.

could you do a solar roof for a trickle charge for the batteries while it sits in a parking lot all day?

Fred, I could but the ends of my trips have a convenient 120-volt plug in.

Can you give me an update on your car? total miles? I’m thinking of converting a Fiero.

Tim

What kind of Baldor motor was used? Can a Baldor 3 phase industrial motor work for an EV conversion? (I can get my hands on an M2515T)

The Baldor motor was from a fork lift. it series wound, single phase I believe. The miles on it right now is 1660, as I just started to drive it home on a regular basis, since the 72 volt upgrade.

Hi Greg.Just surfed onto your site looking for info to convert my VW Scirocco to run on the old electrickery !.I intend to use motors,batteries and relays from an old electric milk float and then use the car to raise money for charity once it is done as well as raise awareness of the advantages of electric vehicles.Do you know anyone who has converted a front wheel drive car ?.I need a range of 45+ Miles and a speed of 50Mph…is it possible ?.Cheers.Andy

Hi Andy

Where are you in the UK?

Have you tried speaking to Robert at http://www.avt.uk.com/
He might be able to help you. Especially good if you live in the south-west. He supplied my EV. It’s a converted Rover Metro

If you are in Scotland you could call Greg. http://www.go-ev.co.uk

James (Coventry UK)

Dear Greg,

I was wonderinmg if you have a YUGO EV for selling and sendinmg it to Chile in South America, and also which would the price be ?

Awaiting your quick response, I remain yours sincerely,

John R. Wilkins

Not at this time. I am trying to buy another one near here, but it is too nice to convert.
I have no idea what the cost would be to ship one to you.
Aren’t there some small cars already there to convert?

How do the F&F Batts do? Can you get a 25 mile range now?

Can you please post some pictures on how you couple the electric motor to the transmission. Or if you prefer, you could just do a drawing of the system.

Thank you

I put some pictures of the connector I made, on the http://www.evalbum.com/
website.
I now have a good 72 volt pack and will be driving it everyday, as soon as the snow goes away )4-6” more tonight).

news: I’ve decided to go back to petrol again. The electric car didnt turn out to be what I wanted. I will be selling it whole to whoever gets me the right price. mail me at my page. Thanks for all the support!

Don’t be a stranger here Greg!

James

Quote“news: I’ve decided to go back to petrol again.
The electric car didnt turn out to be what I wanted. I will be selling it whole to whoever gets me the right price. mail me at my page. Thanks for all the support!”

Someone posted as me!!!
I am NOT going to get out of running my Yugo, or selling it.

And I wouldn’t use the word PETROL, to the idiot that put that information on here.

That was pretty strange. Glad to hear it wasn’t you, Greg. I’ve lined-out the comment.

BTW, the IP address for the fake Greg resolves to: Broward County Public Schools, Tallahassee Florida

I couldn’t understand it, just figured you must have had a bad experience or something. Glad it’s not true!

Me too. I am experimenting with the new battery pack tonight.
I have it on the charger for 2 hours and then will put it on for one more hour in the morning, while doing chores and breakfast.
It is 10 degrees F tonight and want to see how the pack works when I go to my shop in town.

If it’s a flooded pack, keep it well vented!

I’m currently searching for a donor car for my next project. It currently looks as if it’ll be another Rover Metro. I’ll be moving away from flooded batteries. I’m planning a smaller and lighter pack. My car will be more like yours.

Well, it was cold this morning, but the pack was warmed just enough by the last bit of charge to go to town in fine shape.
Ran it home tonight and had 74.5 volts left. The pack is coming up fine. It is under the hood, so no vents needed. Charger is in the rear seat area.

Hi Greg

With flooded batteries it’s possible for there to be enough hydrogen given off under the hood under charging to be a fire risk.
Its worth actively venting it if there it any doubt.

That is true if you are gassing the pack a lot. I usually charge at a lesser rate and not much gassing. You can’t even smell any gas from it.
But, famous last words…
Thanks for the caution…

Hi, I am in boise Idaho: USA, and I have a 1982 VW rabbit, I am junking the motor and planning on running all electic from a electirc fork lift. However, I have a automatic FRONt WHEEL DRIVE car, and I am simply curious as to how I adapt the motor to an automatic transmission without ruinig the tranny!??!?
do I simply adapt the output spline on the motor to the torque convertor; like if I still had the regular gas powered motor still in the car? makes sense to me. Other than fabricating the adapter plate to mate the motor to the tranny, I have all the necessary parts from the electric fork lift to make this thing ZOOOM!! any input?? I am a 14 year ASE certified auto mechanic, and am familiar with electrical, but this is a whole new project for me!!! send an email to clubvippass@hotmail.com

You can adapt the motor to the original flexplate and run the auto as if still ICE powered, but you will have to idle the motor around 300 rpm to keep fluid pressure up while at a stop sign.
I would use the idle solenoid from a carburetot on the pot to set an idle speed.
You could put a pressure gauge on the trans pump pressure tap and then set the idle to enough that you can put the trans in gear and feel it engage.
I wouldn’t worry about a cooler for the trans as it won’t make enough heat to bother anything.
I used to run a Powerglide with just a loop in the cooler line and it never bothered.

On an added note, the F&F 12 volt 24MDCs are not the best battery for an EV.
They are only 95AH and really need a GOOD charger to live for a couple years.
I am thinking of Trojan 8 volts next time. It would only be 3 more batteries. I have also been toying with adding a 12 volt power tool bat in parallel with each of the 6 LAs that I have now.
Experimenting with alternatives to Lith-ion.